Q: Ethanol-free gasoline is available where I live, but at added cost. I have a car that I store over the winter and I fill it with ethanol-free, since I’ve heard that the ethanol in gas can break down quickly. Is there any benefit to using ethanol-free in my daily drivers, a 2019 BMW X3 and a 2014 BMW 335? While we don’t go through gas these days as quickly as we did pre-pandemic, we still refill these daily drivers at least every month to six weeks. — J.B., Minneapolis

A: Ethanol-free gasoline is a good idea for storing a car. Adding some fuel stabilizer is also helpful. Using pure gasoline generally provides up to five percent better fuel economy. It is what the EPA uses to establish those fuel economy ratings and why you seldom get the stated fuel economy on the sticker. Is it worth the higher price? You decide.

Q: Which grade of gasoline would be best for storing my 18-year-old, carbureted Suzuki motorcycle? The owner’s manual says to use regular grade gasoline for everyday riding. When I store my motorcycle in the heated parking garage, I use both Sta-Bil and premium gas. In the spring the next tank of gas is premium, and from then on, either regular or mid-grade gas. A motorcycle mechanic friend says I over-service my bike. — D.W., Chicago

A: In my opinion, you aren’t over-maintaining a vehicle unless you wear out the threads on the oil drain plug. Lack of adequate service, on the other hand, is asking for trouble. But you are probably wasting your money for premium gas during storage.

Q: The battery in my motorcycle seemed to be getting a bit weak, so I ordered a new one online. It came with the sulfuric acid pre-measured and packaged separately in a special plastic sleeve. If I wait until the battery already in the bike gets weaker, will I shorten the life of the new battery as long as I don’t add the acid? — B.H., Colorado Springs, Colo.

A: Your new dry battery can wait until spring. Prior to the advent of maintenance-free batteries, all were shipped dry. They would keep almost indefinitely on the storage shelf of the shop or service station. Prior to installation, the cells would be filled with acid and the battery would be charged. If the mechanic was careless, burns were common.

Q: Next fall I’m going to be in the market for new tires. In the past the dealers have suggested replacing or rebuilding the tire pressure monitors. I have replaced them. Do you recommend replacing them, or rebuilding them? It seems to me one dealer said they could be rebuilt. — G.K., Maple Grove, Minn.

A: Unless there is a problem with the TPM sensor, you need not replace it, but with age the rubber seal may deteriorate and the retaining nut may corrode. These parts are replaced during the rebuild and worth the money.

Q: A wheel that hasn’t been removed for a long time can stick to a hub. I once had to get a tow for tire service that I could have otherwise performed myself. Is there a treatment that can be applied to prevent the sticking? — J.P., Baldwin Twp., Minn.

A: I use anti-seize compound. A thin schmear around the edge of the wheel and where it contacts the hub will do the trick.

Bob Weber is a writer and mechanic who became an ASE-certified Master Automobile Technician in 1976. Send questions along with name and town to motormouth.tribune@gmail.com.